A JOURNEY DOWN THE GANGES RIVER

Mangaldas and villagers bearing the Goddess Ganga en route from Harsil to Bhaironghati in the Indian Himalayas. The Ganges River is 1,500 miles long from  the Himalayas to the Bay of Bengal. The river's water is the lifeblood for more than 600 million people in India and Bangladesh. The Ganges River — Ganga in Hindi — is the lifeblood of more than 600 million people in India and Bangladesh. Farmers depend on the river for their crops. Millions depend on its water for washing, cooking, drinking and to carry away their waste. And many worship the Ganges as a goddess, whose waters will cleanse them of sin and help them attain moksha, or salvation, by carrying their ashes to heaven. Yet the Ganges is under great threat from pollution and a rapidly modernizing India, whose appetite for water far outstrips the river's capacity. In the first of a six-part series, independent producer Julian Crandall Hollick travels deep into the Himalayas in search of the source of the Ganges. His journey begins in the tiny village of Bhaironghati, where villagers take a two-foot high statue of the goddess Ganga and prepare to take her to her summer temple at Gangotri. That's where, Hindus believe, the river came down to Earth in a lock of hair. As the ceremony to install the goddess gets under way in Gangotri, Hollick hears the story about how Hindus believe the Ganges descended from heaven Pollution, Indifference Taint India's Sacred River A woman with a skin disease rests near offerings and trash on the banks of the Ganges in Kanpur, India. The Indian city of Kanpur is an anomaly — an industrial city that lies on the banks of a river that is revered as a goddess. Established in 1801 by the British to supply their army in India, Kanpur is the largest city in the state of Uttar Pradesh, and it sits on the higher, southern bank of the Ganges River. But Kanpur's burgeoning industry pours pollution into the sacred river, making it dirty, unappetizing and synonymous with pollution in residents' eyes. Twenty years ago, the Indian government began a massive program to clean up the river, but for many, Kanpur is proof that those efforts failed. In 1986, Prime Minister Rajiv Gandhi announced a massive Ganga Action Plan to clean up the river. The basic idea made sense: Intercept and treat pollution before it is discharged into the Ganges. Politicians and engineers in Delhi designed sewage treatment plants, but they then expected states and cities to find the money to operate and maintain them. Myriad problems — from inconsistent electricity to indifferent local authorities and residents — stunted the plan. Today, the Ganges at Kanpur is besieged by pollution, including toxic chromium, from local tanneries. The local sewage treatment plant sits idle, and residents suffer from various skin ailments, among other health problems. In the nearby village of Motipur, farm harvests have plunged, and livestock like buffaloes produce half their normal yield of milk. Ganges' Most Sacred Stretch Rich with Tradition An evening offering on the banks of the river Ganges in the village of Singhberpur. For millions of Hindus, the 250-mile stretch of Ganges River between the cities of Kanpur and Varanasi is one of the most sacred parts of the northern plains of India. This stretch of the Ganges serves as the setting of the great epic The Ramayana, which tells the story of an Indian prince who becomes a god. Despite the river's massive pollution, Hindus come from all over the country to bathe, worship and honor dead relatives in the holy waters. In the third of a six-part series, independent producer Julian Crandall Hollick visits villages along the Ganges to learn about Hindu traditions. In the village of Singhberpur, Hollick takes a dip in the water, a ritual that his host says will cleanse him of his sins. In The Ramayana, Singhberpur is featured as the place where the epic's central characters — Ram, Sita and Laxman — cross the Ganges on their way into exile. At the city of Allahabad, midway between Kanpur and Varanasi, the Ganges merges with the Yamuna River and the mythical Saraswati. Together they form the Sangam. Hindus believe that if they take a dip in the Sangam or cast the ashes of dead relatives into the water, their next life can only be better. Varanasi, at the end of this portion of Hollick's journey, is where all the Hindu gods live. Much of daily life in Varanasi takes place on its 84 ghats — stone steps that descend steeply down to the river and stretch two miles northward in a gentle crescent. Hollick speaks with a civil servant and a tailor who have come to wash away their sins and seek salvation. He also finds locals who seek more immediate blessings — success in exams, better health and help kicking addiction. Mystery Factor Gives Ganges a Clean Reputation A man gathers water from the Ganges River at Har-ki-pairi ghat in Haridwar. Hindus have always believed that water from India's Ganges River has extraordinary powers. The Indian emperor Akbar called it the "water of immortality" and always traveled with a supply. The British East India Co. used only Ganges water on its ships during the three-month journey back to England, because it stayed "sweet and fresh." Indians have always claimed it prevents diseases, but are the claims wives' tales or do they have scientific substance? In the fourth installment of a six-part series, independent producer Julian Crandall Hollick searched for the "mysterious X factor" that gives Ganges water its mythical reputation. He starts his investigation looking for the water's special properties at the river's source in the Himalayas. There, wild plants, radioactive rocks, and unusually cold, fast-running water combine to form the river. But since 1854, almost all of the Ganges' water has been siphoned off for irrigation as it leaves the Himalayas. Hollick speaks with DS Bhargava, a retired professor of hydrology, who has spent a lifetime performing experiments up and down Ganges in the plains of India. In most rivers, Bhargava says, organic material usually exhausts a river's available oxygen and starts putrefying. But in the Ganges, an unknown substance, or "X factor" that Indians refer to as a "disinfectant," acts on organic materials and bacteria and kills them. Bhargava says that the Ganges' self-purifying quality leads to oxygen levels 25 times higher than any other river in the world. Hollick's search for a scientific explanation for the X factor leads him to a spiritual leader at an ashram and a biologist in Kanpur. But his best answer for the Ganges' mysterious substance comes from Jay Ramachandran, a molecular biologist and entrepreneur in Bangalore. In a short science lesson, Ramachandran explains why the Ganges doesn't spread disease among the millions of Indians who bathe in it. But he can't explain why the river alone has this extraordinary ability to retain oxygen. Ganges Dam Leaves Devastating Legacy A villager gazes at where Panchanandapur village stood. In 1970, the Indian government built a huge dam called the Farakka Barrage, on the border with Bangladesh, to control the flow of the Ganges River. But the gated dam has had widespread and devastating effects, both in the Indian state of West Bengal and neighboring Bangladesh. In the fifth installment of a six-part series, independent producer Julian Crandall Hollick travels to a village in West Bengal to see how the dam has affected life and livelihoods on the Ganges. Hollick starts his journey in Panchanandapur, a village that — on a map — appears to lie well inland from the Ganges. When he arrives at Panchanandapur however, Hollick finds the village's 5,000 residents living precariously on the banks of the river. Kalyan Rudra, a geography professor in Calcutta, explains that the dam forced the Ganges to shift almost six miles eastward over 30 years, eroding most of the village. An indigo factory, sugar mill, hospital, police station and two-story government building were all swallowed by the river, among other settlements. The Ganges' fast shift, however, made land that was once underwater reappear on the other side of the river bank. Though the villagers consider themselves part of West Bengal, the shift in geography has opened a territory question; neither West Bengal nor Bangladesh recognizes the displaced villagers. At the dam itself, Hollick explores the history and legacy of the controversial project. The Farakka barrage was built at the narrowest point on the Ganges to divert water to Calcutta to the south and flush out the silt that was clogging up its port. But scientists say the project was ill-conceived from the start: Water upstream from the dam carried massive amounts of silt, dropping it directly behind the dam. The buildup — almost 700 million tons annually — has clogged the dam's gates and raised the river bed more than 20 feet. The silt buildup has also forced the river to change its course, swallowing villages and buildings. Months after his visit to Panchanandapur, Hollick returns to the village to find it completely swept away. Tajaml Huq, a village farmer, said he was asleep in his home when someone cried that the erosion had started. Moments later, his home disappeared into the river. Where Ganges Ends, Island Teems With Pilgrims A couple rests on the beach before Makar Sankranti — the day Indians take a holy dip in the Ganges River. Kavars, or devotees of Shiva, bicycle on the beach at Sagar Island on the eve of Makar Sankranti. Every January 14, millions of Indians make their way to Sagar Island for a great bathing festival to celebrate the sun entering Capricorn. The island — where the Ganges River flows into the Bay of Bengal — turns into the Indian version of Woodstock during the celebration. There are no age restrictions, no tickets and no invitations, and celebrants get there any way they can — by train, bus or on foot. At the end of his 1,500-mile journey down the Ganges, independent producer Julian Crandall Hollick visited the island to witness Makar Sankranti — the great day when the island's visitors take a holy dip. Makar Sankranti comes from Hindus' belief that the Ganges descended from heaven. Hindus believe that 60,000 sons of King Sagar disturbed a hermit while he was meditating. The hermit reduced the men to ashes, but King Sagar's grandson begged the gods to send down the Ganges to bring the men back to life. The Ganges came down from the Himalayas to Sagar Island, where it washed over the ashes and liberated the men's souls so they could go to heaven. The millions of pilgrims who come to Sagar Island each year celebrate the release of the men's souls, and they take a dip in the water to seek their own mukti, or freedom.

The Peninsular Rivers of India

There are two types of rivers in the Peninsula:

1. Eastward Flowing Rivers: like Mahanadi, Godavari,     Krishna, Cauvery etc.

2. Westward Flowing Rivers: like Narmada, Tapi,           Periyar, etc.

There are many reasons why the rivers in the Peninsula flow in opposite directions:

(i) The Formation of the Arabian Sea

In olden periods there was no sea to the West of the Western Ghats. Land existed where the Arab Sea lies at present.

The Western Ghats were a water divide area from where rivers originated and flowed to the east and the west. Due to the endogenic forces the land west of this water divide subsided and sea replaced it.

(ii) The Subsidence to the North of the Peninsula

When the Himalayas in the Tethys Sea arose, the Peninsula as a whole was little affected but faults were created.

The Narmada and the Tapti began to flow in these trough faults. As the slope of these faults was westward, the rivers flowed towards the west. In fact many faults were created and rivers filled them with their sediments.

The rivers descending the Western Ghats in the west have a steep slope. These rivers have created a large number of physical features.

When these rivers meet the sea, waves and currents take away the sediment brought by the rivers. This is why these rivers do not make deltas.

Some Characteristics of Peninsular Rivers. As compared to the Himalayas the Peninsular part is very old. The rivers of this plateau have reached their mature stage. This is why the rivers have a mild slope, shallow valleys and lateral erosion.

Peninsular Drainage System

The main rivers are the Mahanadi, Godavari, Krishna and Cauvery.

(1) The Mahanadi River

This river originates from the Bastar Hills in Chhattisgarh. It makes a delta in Orissa and meets the Bay of Bengal.

It flows in M.P and Orissa. Its length is 857 km and its drainage area is 132 thousand sq km and covers the States of Maharashtra, M.P, Chattisgarh and Orissa. The left tributaries of the Mahanadi are Seonath, Hasdeo, Mand and lie.

Out of these tributaries the Sconath has the largest catchment area. The right hand tributaries are the Jonk, Ung and Tel. The catchment area of the Tel is about 22.8 thousand sq km.

Important Features

Hirakud dam has been constructed over the Mahanadi. Thus rivers have created floods in the Chhatisgarh basin. Some canals have also been constructed which provide irrigation facilities.

The main canals arc the Mahanadi Canal, the Tendula Canal and the Kurang Canal. The Brahmani River descends down the Chotanagpur plateau and meets the Mahanadi in its delta.

The main tributaries of this river are the Sankh and Koel. Another river Baitarni rises in the Malaygiri Hills and meets the Brahmani and these together join the Mahanadi delta.

(2) The Godavari River

It originates in the Nasik district of Maharashtra State. It passes through Maharashtra and Andhra Pradesh and forms a delta in the Bay of Bengal. This river is 1,500 km long. Its drainage area is 312 thousand sq km.

The catchment area lies in Maharashtra, A.P, Karnataka, Orissa and M.P about half of the drainage area lies in the Maharashtra. On account of its mild slope and mature stage it is called the Old Ganga.

Its main tributaries are the Prawara, Puma, Manprabha, Pen Ganga, Wain Ganga, Wardha, Prauhita, Indravati, Manar and Sabri.

Important Features

Before reaching the Eastern Ghats, the river is narrowed in Andhra Pradesh within a distance of 32 km and makes a gorge near Pelawaram.

After emerging from it, it spreads. Near Rajamundari it becomes 2,750 m wide. Here Anient dam has been constructed.

(3) The Krishna River

This river originates from near Mahabaleshwar in Maharashtra State. This place is only 64 km away from the Arabian Sea. This river makes a delta close to that of the Godavari and meets the Bay of Bengal. Its length is 1,400 km and the catchment area is 259 thousand sq km. It passes through Maharashtra, Karnataka and A.P

Its tributaries are Koyna, Varna, Panch Ganga, Dudh Ganga, Ghat Prabha, Mai Prabha, Bhima, Tung Bhadra, Musi, etc.

Important Features

Near Nagarjuna Sagar, two canals have been constructed which have proved very useful for irrigation purpose. Near Vijaywada, the river passes through a 1,170 m high gap of gneisses rocks.

(4) The Cauvery River

This river rises and descends from the Brahamanpjin Hills in Coorg district of Karnataka State.This river makes a delta at the Bay of Bengal. The total length of this river is 800 km. It passes through Karnataka and Tamil Nadu states.

Its catchment area is about 88,000 sq km and exists in Kerala as well. Its right hand tributaries are Lakshmantirtha, Kabini, Suvaramati and Bhawani, whereas left Side Rivers arc Heranjji, Hemavati, Shimsha, Ankavati, etc.

Important Features

Many dams have been constructed in order to control floods. The Cauvery has surrounded the two islands of Karnataka namely Sivasamudram and Shirirangpattanam (both in Karnataka).

There are many waterfalls down Sivasamudram. These waterfalls are useful for generating power and have helped in boosting economic growth of Karnataka and Tamil Nadu.

(5) The Narmada

The river rises from the Amarkantaka peak (1,057 m) of the Maikal Range in M.P. It makes an estuary with Gulf of Khambat near Bharauch. Its length is 1,312 km and its catchment area is 93,000 sq km.

Its basin nearly 90% lies in M.P and about 10% in Gujarat. It flows from the east to the west. Its direction of flow is against most of the other rivers of the Peninsula.

Its tributaries are small. Only Orsak is 300 km long. Other tributaries are all smaller than 200 km in length.

Important Features

The river flows in a rift valley which is situated between the Vindhyan and Satpura ranges. Its narrow course in Bheda Ghat down Jabalpore in the marble rocks and in the smoky waterfalls of Kapildhara(Dhuandhar) is fabulous. Here the river makes a fall of 23m.

(6) The Tapi River

It originates from the Betul District in Madhya Pradesh of the Satpura range and debouches in the Gulf of Khambat. It is 721 km in length.

It flows parallel to the Narmada River. Its catchment area is about 65,000 sq km. It passes through M.P, Maharashtra and Gujarat. It flows from the east to the west direction.

The Puma is its main tributary. Its left side tributaries are the Girna, Bori and Panjhara and right sided tributary is Aner.

Important Features

It forms a narrow stony valley between Khandwa and Kharjjoon in M.P It passes through a fertile area 32 km long near Burhanpur.

(7) The Mahi

It originates in the Mehd Lake (545 m) situated in the western part of the Vindhyan range. It also debouches into the Gulf of Khambat. Its length is 560 km. This river passes through M.P, Rajasthan and Gujarat.

The catchment area of the river is 34,842 sq km. Before debouching into the Gulf of Khambat, the river flows for about 532 km to the South.

The river does not have any tributary worth the name.

(8) The Sabarmati River

It raises in the Aravali mountains and falls into the Gulf of Khambat. It is a small river- about 300 km long. It passes through Rajasthan and Gujarat. It flows south and south-west ward. Its catchment area is 21,674 sq km.

Famous passes and routes

Banihal Pass	2,832 m		Connecting the Hill areas of Jammu to the Kashmir Valley
Zoji-La Pass	3,528 m		Between the valley of Kashmir and the Kargil district, Western entrance to Ladakh
Rohtang Pass	3,973 m		Himachal Pradesh, India.
Mohan Pass	800 m		Pass in the Siwalik Hills, parallel to the main Himalayas in Sikkim.
Kora-La Pass	4,594 m		Nepal-Tibet border.. Kora La is the lowest pass 300 metres higher than Nathula and Jelepla passes between Sikkim and Tibet
Arniko Rajmarg	5,260 m		Kathmandu-Nepal crossing into Tibet
Gangtok Pass	4,310 m		Sikkim to Lhasa in Tibet, via the Nathula and Jelepla Passes
Thorong La Pass	5,416 m		The high point of the Annapurna Circuit, connects the Manang District to the Mustang District in Nepal.

Mountain Ranges of the World

The Himalaya

The Himalaya Range is the highest mountain system in the world. The name "Himalaya" comes from the Sanskrit language and means "the House of Snow," or "the Snowy Range." It consists of several parallel ranges.The mountains extend in a 1,500 mile curve across southern Asia from the Pamirs, west of the great bend of the Indus River, eastward to the great bend of the Brahmaputra River. They form a barrier which separates northern India from the plateau of Tibet. Parts of the range are as much as 200 miles wide.
The Himalayas rise in steps from the plains of northern India, which have an elevation of about 1,000 feet (305 m.) above sea level.
Mount Everest (29,035 feet; 8,849 m.), which lies between Tibet and the kingdom of Nepal, is the highest mountain in the world.
One of the most famous peaks in the range is Mount Kailash (21,778 ft; 6,638 m.) which lies in Tibet. The Tibetans call this mountain Kang Rimpoche (the Mountain of Precious Snow). This mountain is holy to the Hindus and Buddhists and is said to contain the thrones of their gods.
Kanchenjunga (28,169 ft; 8,585 m.), the world's third highest peak, lies near Mount Everest. Other high peaks in this range include Makalu (27,825 ft; 8,481 m.), Dhaulagiri (26,795 ft; 8,167 m.), Nanga Parbat (26,660 ft; 8,126 m.) and Mount Kamet (25,446 ft; 7,756 m.).
The passes that run through the Himalayas are among the highest in the world. Few of the passes are lower than 15,000 or 16,000 feet above sea level. Most of them are covered with snow from November to May and are impossible to cross. Many glaciers form in the high passes.
Almost every kind of climate can be found in the Himalayas, because of the great difference in altitude in various parts of the range.
This wide range in climate makes possible a variety of plant life in these mountains. On the steep southern slopes grow tropical plants, such as the fig and palm tree. These plants are found up to a height of 3,000 feet (914 m.). Oak, chestnut, and laurel trees are common up to a height of 7,000 feet (2,133 m.). Deodar and pine trees begin to appear at 12,000 feet (3,657 m.). Shrubs and climbing plants are found in great numbers in the forests, and large rhododendrons grow on the mountain slopes.
This range is home to many animals that live in tropical, temperate, and cold regions. The tiger, leopard, rhinoceros, elephant, monkey, and yak are also found here.

@rakesh